Sightseeing

Just a quick blog today, as I am running out of internet minutes and also need to go back "home" to learn how to make mendazi - like donuts but better!

We traveled to Paraa during the last two days to do some sightseeing. Our original plan was to spend one day viewing Murchison Falls and a second on a game drive. As often happens here, our plans were rearranged. We were unable to find accomodations for two nights, so we spent one there and chose the game drive. Excellent choice! We went on a safari through the Ugandan game park, the savannah where many wild animals make their home. Our guide, Charles, was awesome. He found every animal that can be seen in this area. We were about 40 feet away from a pride of lions and even saw two females get into a spat!
We also were very, very lcose to a few elephants - they are huge here! Giraffe's were plenty, and many other animals, including spotting two leopards. Our freind Paul, who accompanied us, said it was the best game drive he's been on.

We also had the opportunity to have dinner wiht a hippo. As we sat outside of a canteen having Nile Specials and dinner (goat stew) we were joined by a hippo who was also having a dinner of grass nearby. It was amazing. We all forgot to be afraid.


We are back home now, in Gulu, and will be enjoying the 4th Ugandan style.

Blessings to all of you.

It's Always Something

One sad observation I have made here is that there seems to be no end to the overwhelming difficulties the people of Uganda face - particularly in the villages and in the north. The war has plagued the northern section of the country for over 20 years. Although cessation of hostilities is coming upon its third anniversary, the people here are only just beginning to have enough confidence in their safety to begin to move back to their lives outside of the Internally Displaced Persons camps. It is, in fact, rather interesting to be here now, as the closely packed huts are vacated and people move to homesteads and more comfortable living conditions. There is even a ritual to the process of moving away from the IDP camps. If a family feels confident in leaving and comfortable that they will be fine, they remove the roof of their IDP hut and knock the walls down, leaving a very distinct remnant of their stay.
The camps we have visited are filled with such symbols of a new beginning. But some do not feel certain that they will make it at home. These families leave their hut standing, often moving from IDP to homestead and back many times until they are ready to make a permanent move.
There is reason for concern about the future. This year, as the movement away from camps has been happening, it has been particularly dry here. Crops are not growing, and often are drying up completely. We had the opportunity to go to Atiak with some Sisters from St. Monica’s who are attempting to build another Girls Tailoring School there. They had recently gone to plant some crops on the large plot of land, but when we arrived, we found that the entire field was completely dry and brown. Not a single plant remained alive, and there was no hope to save anything. This frustration is also devastating the people here and in many areas of Uganda. I believe most of the people rely on producing their own foods, with only small supplements added to the crops they can grow. When the climate cooperates, the food is abundant and provides for the family and also for some income from selling the excess. But this is not working during the drought. The day before we visited Atiak, 2 people died of hunger in the small village. They were the most recent among others who have not been able to withstand the extreme hunger, and they will likely not be the last.
Happily, from the generosity of some of our friends in the US, we came with money to be used specifically for feeding those in need, so we arrived there with bread and a donut for each child. They were given tea as well, and it was a great feast! Fr. Arnold, the priest there, said that it would likely be the only meal of the day for the children. Along the hot and very bumpy journey to Atiak, we also bought 100 pounds each of rice and beans to help feed the community. This experience, along with many others we are having each day, gives a whole new meaning to the call from the Gospel to feed the hungry.
We have all come to appreciate food very much, and water as well. We eat small portions, mostly by choice, because it is hard to be living among those who suffer and not share in their plight. There is no shortage of food at our table each meal, thanks to the very kind Sisters of the Sacred Heart here, but we are all very conscious of overeating and waste now. Well, almost all of us. Jimmy has earned the nicjkname “Exploratory” for being willing to try anything and eat well! This makes the Sisters very happy! Mandy and Alyssa also were very brave when the roasted ants came out - they both tried them like troopers and didn’t mind them at all. Not so for Fr. Don and I, as we were not brave enough to take the plunge!
The problems here do not end with drought and near famine conditions. Jobs are nearly impossible to find, and wages are meager at best. It is an economy with little new infusion of cash, so it is hard to see a way to build the job base and the living conditions here. The corruption only adds to the problem. It is often hard to separate the truly needy from the truly crafty. They are well versed in creating stories to tug at the heartstrings, knowing that these stories are true for so many. I have been asked for money by nearly everyone I meet, for needs varying from shoes to food to start-up for a new business. Another popular ploy is mentioning a relative who has just died and needs to be transported home for burial. We are checking stories carefully and helping those truly in need when we can, for true need is overwhelmingly present.
A host of other problems contribute to the difficult life here that can seem hopeless. Transportation is difficult at best, and traffic accidents are not uncommon.
It is better here in Gulu, where there are few taxis and most travel using bicycles or boda bodas, or by walking. Roads are better this year in Uganda, but still often filled with large potholes. Medical care is hard to find, and disease is rampant. There are signs of malnourishment everywhere - perhaps even to the extent that mental development is affected. Water is hard to get, and clean healthy water is rarte if not in bottles.
This constant struggle is very powerfully evident, but being here is not so oppressive. In fact, in some ways it is idyllic. Everything is done by hand, and the people here are meticulous about their daily work. Chapati - like tortillas - is made perfectly round, vegetables are cut with precision, and even the driveways and dirt yards are swept regularly. God’s presence is very notable here, where people rely on faith to make it through the day. There is little complaining - in fact much less than at home - and great joy in small things like a piece of candy or a heavy rain to water the crops well. I am filled with peace here, and do not feel out of place or anxious to return home. Of course I do miss everyone and will rejoice in returning, and I would be ecstatic with a pepperoni pizza right now, but I have made this my temporary home and settled into life here with all its struggles, trying to grow spiritually and personally from all I see and experience. We are graced to be staying with the Sacred Heart Sisters who are so filled with love and hospitality, and the people here greet you so kindly and happily wherever you go. We all feel that this will be life changing in terms of appreciating things and more importantly people.
We are heading out for a safari for a few days. It has been hard to get online here, but I will add more posts as soon as I can. I have so much to share because of all we have been seeing and doing. We have visited IDP camps, the sites of the two worst massacres of the war, schools, families, and even some local sites that were overwhelmingly wonderful. And we are making many good friends. 8,000 miles will not be so far away knowing that these people are here and we are all praying for each other’s well being and salvation. God is definitely so very, very good and so present in our days. May he bless all of you abundantly.

Life in Uganda

We have been in Uganda for a while now and I would like to share a bit about the life we are experiencing. First, I think my feet are forever red - the soil is very red here and it sticks to everything., There has been little rain, so the roads, dirt rather than paved, are so very dusty. Often we walk in a cloud of dust, and by the end of the day, we have a healthy color to us - that washes down the drain in the shower, but not without a bit of scrubbing!

Our first night in Gulu, at St. Monica’s, we were all gathered around the table just beginning dinner, and suddenly all went black. We lost power, which is not unusual here. And in Uganda, there is little power to begin with, so it is very very dark at night. Thankfully, there is a generator that can provide electricity in such situations, and soon it was on and we were again able to see each other and our meal. When the evening came to a close, we walked back to our rooms across campus to find that we had some very large and not so smart insects flying in the hall. Trying to figure out what these creatures were that kept running into the wall and falling stunned to the ground, we had all left our rooms. Suddenly, everything went black again - the sisters had shut down the generator to save fuel during the night. Unfortuinately, we had not unpacked or organized and it was a mad scramble trying to rmemeber where the flashlights and headlamps had been packed. Then came the interesting and amusing task of trying to wash and prepare for sleep by flashlight. We had many laughs that night, and now we have become quite adept at moving around in the dark. The power was out for about 48 hours in and around Gulu, so we had “lights out” at 10:30 to save fuel. But everything continued as usual here. This will likely happen often during our stay, but itis surprisingly easy to adjust to. And the insects have been determined to be harmless, if ugly.


Food has also been an experience for us. In Kampala and Jinja, the food was excellent and meals were often very large. We spent most of our time eating out there, as we were staying in hotels and lodges. Of course, eating out is much less excpensive than we are accustomed to in the States. Jim had whole tilapia four days in a row, and the rest of us enjoyed other versions of it that were the best we’d ever tasted. The fried chicken was pretty good as well. Now we are sharing most meals with the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus where we are staying. It is certainly more authentic, and pretty interesting. They eat a lot of vegetables, many unrecognizable, and they are fresh and often very good. The fruit, mostly mangos and bananas, are also very fresh and much more tasty. We had fresh peas today that were excellent, and also something they called dried peas that looked like lentils but tasted more like peanuts. In general, there is always something that tastes good, and plenty of opportunity for trying new things.
The day has a different feel to it here. Evertything is done in a relaxed way, and schedules are more or less made to be broken. It is just their way of life to go with the flow and adjuslt as needed. This is a nice approach sometimes, but it can be frustrating when we have so little time and so much to accomplish. But we will trust in God and take it one day at a time. Life is too short and precious to waste it on stress and frustration.

I have found that it is important to let go of any of our paradigms and sensibilities from home in order to be experience Uganda fully. At home I would never even consider getting on a motorcycle, but here it is the only way to move around, and I am finding that I enjoy it now (most of the time - the bumps can get a little bit hard to take in certain areas of Gulu). I also have had to forget I don’t like bugs, although they are not really much of an issue. And as I mentioned, we are dirty and hot most of the day. But it is all okay, because it is the only way to be here in Uganda!

Suprisingly, we have all adapted well to our life here. It has been a smooth trip and very comfortable to be here. We laugh at the interesting situations we encouhnter, and everything seems to work out just fine. And there is so much beauty and kindness in the people here, that it is all worth it.



We have seen many areas of Uganda now as we have traveled around, and I think I have a sense of what life is like for Ugandans. Words cannot describe it accurately, so you will have to wait for photos to be added when I return, but Ill give it a try.

Poverty is everywhere. There are really no areas anything like the US and the way we live. Along the roads we have traveled, there are many small towns that are really just a series of shacks and cement buildings. Many are brightly colored in gold or fuschia because large companies will paint them for free with their color and logo for advertising. These strtuctures are small businesses and homes, and they look about the same. They are tiny, dark, and often dirty or surrounded by garbage. There are also many people who sit right near the road selling fruits, roasted meant and vegetables, and cell phone minutes. It is organized chaos, especially when a car stops to buyh something - we were ambushed by vendors many times on our journeyt north!

Other than Kampala, even the so-called cities are like this, but with many streets. My impression is that it all looks the same.

Homes are interspersed among these businesses, and also spread into the more rural areas. They are mostly huts or concrete bujildings with one-room sections that are dark inisde, and usually unfinished.. Often an entire family will live in just one of these rooms. There are some nicer homes, but they are not usually bigger than a mobile home.

Another thing I have found very different and hard to adjust to is that children, even very young onesz, roam around and even walk along busy main roads alone - this is typical here and they seem to do fine., Children here have much more responsibility, and it seems that they handle it well.

There are also people walking round all the time, or sitting along the roads here. Life is Condi ducted outside most oif the time. At the internet café here in Gulu, the copyu machine is even out on the sidewalk!

Watching people here in Gulu, I see an existence more like the fifties and sixties, or life in very rural areas of our south. While the Poverty here is overwhelming, there is also something idyllic about Life here. Fresh food grown at home, children playing with each other outside in simple ways, extended families living together or close to each other and help;ing each other. There’s something good in this - if only there was enough food and water for everyone and disease was not so predominant.

In spite of the difficultui8es, the strenght and faith of the people I have met is astounding. Churches are filled and overflowing with joy and thanks to God. And people are genuinely interested in other people. Whereever we go, we are greete3d with smiles, we are remembered by all we meet, each encounter is marked by hanbdshakes or embraces, along with “you are welcome.” Thbe contrast is so hard to deal with and process.

Love to you all! Peace! Apoyo!

Patience is a Virtue

Hello from Gulu, in northern Uganda. Yesterday we journeyed here, with seven of us packed into a vehicle. It was a tight fit but a smooth and safe ride. There has been much progress here with the condition of the roads, so we had only a few encounters with potholes, and movement along Gulu road is good. This is so good for Ugandans who have been accustomed to dirt roads and large craters for many years.


But I have found that patience truly is a virtue, especially in Uganda. The traffic can slow down to a stop at random times, roads are crowded, and it is very hard to predict travel times. Also, when ordering food, it usually takes 45 minutes to an hour to receive it. This is the Ugandan way, but on the flip side, it is made fresh and tastes great. The people here must also have great patience because things are difficult to accomplish. Convenience has not even begun to be a part of life here.
Water is boiled, food cooked on open flame often, and most people walk everywhere. Also, today in Gulu the line at the bank is about 60 people. Being here has taught me to take life one minute at at time and enjoy it, savor it.

Along the way, we were blessed to encounter many baboons near the River Nile. They came and sat right next to our car, since we shared some of our roasted maize with them. It was fascinating! They are very gentle and calm creatures, and the way the mother and baby interact is so human! And I can understand their interest in the maize - it was warm and delicious. In the villages and towns along the roads here, there are many markets and street vendors selling their products - roasted maize, fruit, and even roasted meat - we stayed clear of the meat on good recommendation!


As we approached Gulu, we were looking to see the IDP camps - but we were disappointed, very happily disappointed. The camps have all but disappeared now, and people have moved back to their homes or to build new ones. People are also moving around freely without fear. It is so good that the people here are finally able to begin a new life - many have lived in camps their whole life. Joseph, our driver, said that the people are now happier and feeling useful again. Unfortunately, there are still so many men without

Time to return to our home. Love to all from Gulu, and peace.\

The Beauty and the Poverty

Greetings from Jinjatown. We have been in the area for a few days to visit one of our former students, Henry, and to see more of the country. The internet is slow and hard to get to, but I am doing my best to keep updating you. There is so much to see, think about, and process.

Jinja is a strong contrast to Kampala as it is smaller and less chaotic. It is also near the Nile and Lake Victoria so a beautiful place. In fact, the source of the Nile is here - although Usuman doesn't agree!


Yesterday we went to Bujjagali Falls - a series of waterfalls in the Nile river. The area is absolutely breathtaking. It is nowhere near the size of Niagara Falls, but it is so scenic. There are a few little hut shops and a little Cantina on the banks - with the best Tilapia ever! Other than that, it is just open country, with residents living nearby. We took many photos, but they may not do it justice. We also took a boat ride - in something between the size of a canoe and a rowboat - 7 of us and a couple we befriended yesterday. That was an adventure - boating on the River Nile! It allowed us to see some amazing views, as we stopped along the way a few times.
The stops also allowed us to see some local people. I gave sweeties to the children I met - some were doing their own hand laundry, the others were playing while their mother did the washing. They were delighted by my camera and the photos I took of them.

AT the Cantina, a group of school girls befriended us, especially the young girls, and insisted on many photos together. They were from Marta Secondary School and were very sweet and fun. They also seemed to be thrilled to make contact with some American students!

I went with Fr. Don to visit Henry's wife and baby son. The baby, Brendan, is ill with Malaria and Measles, but we were able to give them what they needed for medical care. Henry and his wife Betty, along with Brendon, live in one small room with one twin mattress on the floor. They are blessed to have one electric light but have to go get water. We also visited more of Henry's family. There were 3 adults and 10 children there - and the children acted as if our visit was the best thing that ever happened to them. We had hugs all around, received huge and genuine smiles, and thrilled them with our photographic abilities. It was also a blessing to leave them with a small amount of money for food, as they looked as if they were quite malnourished.

It is hard to explain the contrast here. The country is beautiful and the people are so very kind and friendly. Yesterday a young couple from our Lodge offered to drive us to the Falls - a greatly appreciated offer given the difficulties of transportation here. They ended up staying with us for a drink and the boat ride, and we learned so much from them. Emmanuel and Solome will be people we continue to speak with in the future because they can be a very helpful resource here on the ground. They have connections and experience that will be helpful to us for sure. The Holy Spirit was truly at work.

But on the opposite end, the living conditions here are unbelievable and sad. And many are ill - it was heartbreaking to see Brendan so ill - especially when malaria is not so hard to cure with the right care. It has been hard for me to hold back from giving away all of our money quickly because people here all are in need. And so many children!

We have just come from Mass, and the homily, all 45 minutes of it!, was inspiring and appropriate. The priest spoke of how it is challenging to be the face of Jesus, and people should remember this and trust in God, stay focused, and keep their eyes on Jesus. He also reminded the people that the problems of life are God's problems. Good words indeed, but more so given the audience to whom he spoke. I imagine it can be hard to preach here, or perhaps it is easy because the people cling to the hope that Jesus provides. I'm not sure, but I know that I was deeply touched by the Mass today - all of it.

We are all well and happy here, and moving on to Gulu tomorrow (Monday). May God bless all of you.

The first few days in Uganda

Hello to all of our friends!

It is Thursday evening, June 18th, I think. We have been in Uganda for two full days and it is still amazing to me that we are here. I wish I could describe to you vividly what we have seen, but I fear that words cannot adequately describe it. For those of you who saw Slumdog Millionaire, suffice it to say that the film depicted poverty well.

Our first day here was one of travel and exploration. We are in Kampala, the capitol city. We arrived here yesterday after traveling by taxi from Entebbe. The ride in itself was an experience - taxi travel is one of the most used methods of transport. It is crazy, chaotic, but also somehow systematic. It just works. Along the road from Entebbe to Kampala we saw an endless stream of small (alcove size) shops and businesses. People were selling, creating, etc. all along the streets. It became apparent that they use and reuse everything and make their livings in a simple way. Animals also grazed along the road, with no thought of stepping into traffic.


Once in the city, it was a different version of the same thing. Shops along the roads, with taxis and boda bodas - motorcycle taxis - filling the streets. People were everywhere. But there was a sense of calm and content amidst people sitting on the streets for lack of anywhere else to go.

We have met with several of our scholars in the last few days and it is so nice to be able to be in face=to=face contact with them. My dear friend and adopted son Usuman has spent the time with us and is a joy. All of them are wonderful.

One thing that comes to my mind is that in the poverty here they do things that we should all do, but we don't. For example, nearly all beverages are in glass bottles - no wasted plastic. I also am finding that no matter the culture, people are people. But lack of possessions seems to turn the focus to the things that really matter - like gratitude and relationship.

Tomorrow, we will go to Jinja to visit a beautiful area where there are falls and the source of the river Nile. We will spend a few days there with Usuman and perhaps see Henry. You can check out our destination by googling Kingfisher Lodge Jinja. We are looking forward to a nice experience and then heading to Gulu on Monday.

Peace and love to you all!

It is time to prepare for a great journey. In the final week before we leave the US to head to Uganda, there is scarcely time to think about anything other than the details and preparations. But in the few quiet moments, I am reminded of the homily I was blessed to hear on Pentecost Sunday (thank you Fr. Jared). It is God’s gift of the Holy Spirit that gives us the strength and desire to live in Him. We often think of that gift in the form of a dove, but Fr. Jared described the Irish image and it rang so very true to me. In my heritage, the spirit is thought of as a goose – an aggressive, demanding, and not always nice bird to say the least. The Spirit is this, truly, and it demands much of us. As we journey to a land where beauty and faith mingle with poverty, disease, and despair, I will remember that the Spirit of God lies there and demands to be heard. As much as I think I know where we are going, I also am sure that I know nothing. I pray that the Holy Spirit will guide us on our mission, and that we will be open to his work – whether he comes in the form of a dove, tongues of fire, or a honking goose!